Hommage

A French course has, on one occasion, included clay-pot rice with black abalone, sansho pepper, konowata and junsai. At Hommage in Asakusa, diners’ accounts recall dishes that draw on Japanese ingredients and ideas while keeping French cooking at their heart. One diner singled out the rice, which combined black abalone with sansho, konowata, junsai and Namida-mame, as a particular highlight. Rather than expecting it as a signature dish, it is best to look forward to whatever the season and the course bring.

One dinner account describes a main course of Kagoshima Wagyu harami, topped with bresaola and served with a sauce rich in dashi-like flavour. The diner’s account suggests a dish focused not simply on richness, but on the character of the lean cut and its pairing with the sauce. Fish dishes vary, too. At one dinner, sea bream with mushrooms, champagne jus and truffle made a strong impression. Another diner remembered tilefish with crisped skin, served with a wide variety of herbs.

The courses offer plenty to enjoy from the opening dishes through to dessert, including a succession of small plates. One diner who had a vegetable-themed lunch course recorded a salad of mozzarella and aged balsamic, a ratatouille-style dish served with fish, and lamb with pumpkin gnocchi. The dishes vary from one visit to another, making each day’s course its own encounter.

Desserts have also included Kaminari-okoshi, a traditional Asakusa sweet, and financiers baked in moulds shaped like Ningyo-yaki, another familiar local confection. For diners curious to see how these treats are interpreted within a French course, dessert can be part of the appeal. Some visitors have also paired their meals with wine or non-alcoholic drinks. Reservations are recommended for both lunch and dinner, so it is worth planning ahead.